Thursday, November 7, 2013

The Bus Stops at Every Baobab Tree: Dispatches from a Volunteer in Tanzania (Post # 7) (July 1999 - July 2000)

The Chicken Dinner That Never Was

We have divided up into teams of two, taking turns to cook dinners in the evenings for our group. Somehow, I got paired up with cheerless Andrew. Twice divorced with two grown children, he’d been an accountant for twenty-two years. At fifty-four he was the only volunteer older than me. I think Andrew forgot how to smile years ago.  He speaks deliberately as if each word he utters has been carefully weighed and considered ahead of time. His too-thin frame reminds me of Tibetan ascetics who live in the mountains surviving on berries, roots and goat milk—men who willingly choose their austere, cheerless existences and half-starve themselves to achieve a higher state of being. Let’s just say, Andrew is not the warm and fuzzy type.
After nearly a week of vegetarian meals—vegetables in tomato sauce, vegetables and rice in tomato sauce or vegetables and beans in tomato sauce—we are ready for some meat. I’d seen several butcher shops around town, but each had a fly-encrusted side of beef hanging in the open-air window, slowly roasting under the equatorial sun. Needless to say, we are not going to patronize those stores. That leaves just one choice—buying a live chicken from the market. Deciding to purchase a live chicken that will somehow be transformed into a meal by two people whose entire previous experience with chicken consists of pre-packaged boneless breasts, is a little like choosing to climb Mount Everest as your first mountain-climbing experience. But we are determined to bring home the bacon for our fellow volunteers.
Our plan is simple: go to the market, pick out a chicken and then have the chicken salesman do the dirty work by executing the poor little buzzard. Then we’ll take it home, pluck it, cut it up and cook it. Sounds simple right?
We make our way to the market. My job is to take photos of this event for posterity. Price is not a problem. You can purchase a live chicken for a couple dollars. We find the live chicken section of the market, but immediately reach our first hurdle. Exactly how does one choose the right chicken? Do you pry open its beak to look at…well…what? Do you lift its tail feathers and look into its chicken nether regions? Is that even allowed? I could just imagine the headline in the Arusha Times, the local English newspaper:  “American Volunteers Expelled From Country, Branded As Chicken Perverts” or “Poking Chicken Privates Lands Two Americans In The Pokey.”
Of course I’m having these debates in my own head. Andrew is taking this all very seriously—too seriously. I’m snapping pictures as if recording the first lunar space landing and he is staring morosely at chicken after chicken the salesman pulls out of the cages. The whole thing falls apart when the chicken salesman gets frustrated and finally waves us away because it is apparent that we can’t make a decision. Secretly, I’m relieved.
We make a vegetarian dinner of vegetables, rice and beans in tomato sauce.
After diner the evening talk turns to one of Tom’s favorite subjects.
“Did I tell you guys about the time I got giardia in Nicaragua? It was toooo-ta-ly awful. I had the shits for weeks. I lost thirty pounds…”

At least he waited until after dinner to share this. I leave and go upstairs to read.